|
Frequently Asked Questions |
|
|
|
Q.
What is the difference between Plastic and
Resin Model Kits? |
| A.
Most plastic models are injection-molded
in polystyrene, and the parts are glued together
with plastic solvent. While most resin models
are cast-molded in a thermosetting epoxide
polymer that cures (polymerizes and cross-links)
when mixed with a catalyzing agent or "hardener"
and the parts are glued together with Super Glue
or some other form of Cyanoacrylate. |
|
|
Q.
Which is better; Plastic or Resin Model Kits? |
| A.
Plastic or Resin model kits is a
personal preference. Plastic model kits are
injection-molded and usually hollow and light
weight when assembled. This is because
most plastic injection-molded parts come in two
halves which are glued together. Plastic
models are easier to run electrical lighting
inside because they are hollow. Resin model kits
are usually solid and has more weight when
assembled. Since resin kits usually have
parts that are solid it is difficult to run
electrical lighting. However resin model kits
are a wonderful alternative to plastic,
especially when your favorite model is not
available in plastic. |
|
|
Q.
What is meant by "Flash" and "Bubbles" on a
Resin Model kit? |
| A.
When the two halves of the model mold
come together and is injected with resin, some
of the excess resin squeezes out along the edges
and then hardens. When the two halves are
separated and the resin model is pulled from the
mold, you can see the excess resin along the
edges where the two halves of the mold can
together; The excess material is referred to as
"Flash". "Flash" can also be found on
plastic models since injection-molded models are
made in a similar method. "Bubbles" refers
to little pockets of air that gets trapped in
the resin as it cures inside the mold.
When these pockets of air cures close to the
surface of the model, they form small crater
like pits commonly referred to as "Bubbles". |
|
|
Q.
How do you fix excessive "Flash" and
"Bubbles" on a Resin Model kit? |
| A.
"Flash" on a model kit can be trimmed
off using a sharp hobby knife and filed down
smooth. "Bubbles" can be filled in with a
model filler and then sanded smooth. |
|
|
Q.
What is the difference between Factory Decals and ALPS
printed decals? |
| A.
Factory Decals have a clear coat of
lacquer which usually covers the printed decal
to be removed and used. Most decals are
printed on "waterslide" decal paper and are very
fragile or delicate because they don't have a
clear coated of lacquer to protect them from
ripping or falling apart. ALPS Printed Decals
usually don't have a clear coat of lacquer
unless otherwise stated by the manufacturer.
JTGraphics Decals for example already comes with
a clear coat of lacquer for added protection.
You can purchase a clear coat of lacquer
specially formulated to protect decals from
Testors or other model supply stores. |
|
|
Q.
How do you apply ALPS print decals? |
| A.
Decals printed on an ALPS printer and
are usually very fragile compared to factory
printed decals which has a clear coat of lacquer
for added strength. To give strength to
ALPS printed decals, you can spray a clear coat
of lacquer over the entire sheet. You can
purchase clear lacquer specially formulated for
inkjet or laser printed decals. |
|
